![]() Work the dye into the leather in a circular motion, evenly covering the entire piece. It’ll leave a dark spot where it first makes contact. Don’t pour the dye directly on the leather. Use a dauber, damp sponge or wool scrap to apply the dye to the leather. I use Tandy’s Professional Waterstain® as I’ve tried others, but it works best for me easy to apply, even staining, etc. Pour a small amount of dye (if you spill the dye, you will have only a small amount to clean up) in a plastic or glass dish (never metal). I like to use a cardboard box to prevent any chance of dye splashing onto my workbench. Glove-up you only want to dye the leather not your skin. Put down cardboard or several layers of newspaper to protect your work area and absorb any excess dye/stain. The dotted lines are reference lines for gouges on the rough (flesh) side of the leather. Keep checking to ensure you mark all solid lines, stitching, rivet and slot holes, except don't mark for the hole for the snap at the top of the flap. Use a metal ruler or square to help keep lines straight and corners at a right angle. Occasionally lift one end of the film to check to make sure you're copying it all. Use a stylus or even a dry ball-point pen to transfer the pattern to the smooth side of the cased leather. Just flip the pattern over if you want the flashlight on the left and trace through the backside of the pattern. This arrangement seems to work best for a right-handed person when the pouch is worn on the left side of your waist as the flashlight sits behind the multi-tool. The pattern is for a multi-tool pouch with the flashlight holder/sleeve on the right side. Because the leather is moist, the impression from the stylus will show clearly even after going through a couple of layers. On the other hand, you can trace the pattern on to the film with a pencil and use it to outline the pattern on the leather. Tape the film and pattern to the work surface to keep everything from moving. I use tracing film between the pattern and the leather to keep the paper pattern from getting wet. *Tandy Leather Factory Item # in Brackets 1/16" Adhesive-Backed Neoprene Foam Padding.Fiebing's Acrylic Resolene (Optional).Granite Slab or Similar Hard, Flat Surface.That will help you decide which tool is best for you. Think about what you need, how in-depth you’re willing to go with repairs, how bulky of a tool you want to carry, and your budget. Screwdrivers are another standard feature, as are Torx bits (you’ll often find these bolts holding rotors to hubs). Every tool on our list features a selection of hex wrenches, though not all of them carry the larger 8mm hex necessary to tighten a pedal in a crank arm. That’s why we included multi-tools that offer only the bare minimum as well as those that can make just about any midride repair. We haven’t tested all the tools on our list, but we’ve used enough to know what you need (and don’t need). How We Chose These Multi-Toolsīicycling’s test team has certainly experienced no shortage of roadside and trailside repairs and adjustments-from loose cleat bolts to saddle-height tweaks to flats and more. Another has an integrated CO2 dispenser that works with both presta and Schrader valves. One of our favorites includes a small torque wrench to help prevent overtightening bolts and potentially damaging sensitive parts, like carbon handlebars. Some disassemble and reassemble in ways that offer more leverage or to keep the tool from flexing in use for more precision tightening. Some tools are magnetized to help hold bits in place on the tool itself, or to hold the tool in place on the bike. Join Bicycling All Access for more gear picks Cool Tech to Look For ![]() They are also high quality and comfortable enough to use on a regular basis-as at home on a workbench as they are in a backpack or jersey pocket. These are great set-it-and-forget-it options.īench-worthy tools tend to come in roll-up pouches and include removable handles that allow extra leverage. Hidden multi-tools attach to or slot into existing openings on your bike, so you don’t need to carry them in a pack, seatbag, or jersey pocket. (You likely could completely assemble or disassemble a bicycle with one if you wanted.) They can be bulky-likely best carried in a backpack or seatbag-but will let you ride worry-free. They are small, lightweight, and simple.Īll-in- one tools contain pretty much everything you need, including tire levers and a chain tool, to fix most any malfunction. You’ll likely need to augment them with a set of tire levers and/or a chain tool to have an all-situations fixer. Super-minima list tools contain the bare essentials-mostly hex wrenches.
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